How to Automotive

How often should I change my oil?

David Walker, LeaseTrader.com — Tue, 14 Jun 2011 20:46:26 GMT

How often should I change my oil?

Most vehicle manufacturers recommend changing the oil once a year or every 7,500 miles in passenger car and light truck gasoline engines. For diesel engines and turbocharged gasoline engines, the usual recommendation is every 3,000 miles or six months.

If you read the fine print, however, you'll discover that the once a year, 7,500 mile oil change is for vehicles that are driven under ideal circumstances. What most of us think of as "normal" driving is actually "severe service" driving. This includes frequent short trips (less than 10 miles, especially during cold weather), stop-and-go city traffic driving, driving in dusty conditions (gravel roads, etc.), and driving at sustained highway speeds during hot weather. For this type of driving, which is actually "severe service: driving, the recommendation is to change the oil every 3,000 miles or six months.

For maximum protection, most oil companies say to change the oil every 3,000 miles or three to six months regardless of what type of driving you do.

A new engine with little or no wear can probably get by on 7,500 mile oil changes. But as an engine accumulates miles, blowby increases. This dumps more unburned fuel into the crankcase which dilutes the oil. This causes the oil to break down. So if the oil isn't changed often enough, you can end up with accelerated wear and all the engine problems that come with it (loss of performance and fuel economy, and increased emissions and oil consumption).

Oil Analysis

Truck fleets often monitor the condition of the oil in their vehicles by having samples analyzed periodically. Oil samples are sent to a laboratory that then analyzes the oil's viscosity and acid content. Oil is then burned in a device called a spectrometer that reveals various impurities in the oil. From all of this, a detailed report is generated that reveals the true condition of the oil.

Oil analysis is a great idea for fleets and trucks that hold a lot of oil. But most consumers would have a hard time justifying the cost. Having an oil sample analyzed typically costs $12 to $20 for the lab work and report. Most quick lube shops charge $16.95 to $19.95 for an oil change. So why spend your money on a report that will probably tell you your oil needs changing? Just change the oil every 3,000 miles and don't worry about it.

Regular oil changes for preventative maintenance are cheap Insurance against engine wear, and will always save you money in the long run if you keep a car for more than three or four years. It's very uncommon to see an engine that has been well maintained with regular oil changes develop major bearing, ring, cam or valve problems under 100,000 miles.

What About The Oil Filter?

To reduce the costs of vehicle ownership and maintenance, many car makers say the oil filter only needs to be replaced at every other oil change. Most mechanics will tell you this is false economy.

The oil filters on most engines today have been downsized to save weight, cost and space. The "standard" quart-sized filter that was once common on most engines has been replaced by a pint-sized (or smaller) filter. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure out that a smaller filter has less total filtering capacity. Even so, the little filters should be adequate for a 3,000 mile oil change intervals -- but may run out of capacity long before a second oil change at 6,000 or 15,000 miles.

Replacing the oil filter every time the oil is changed, therefore, is highly recommended.

An engine's main line of defense against abrasion and the premature wear it causes is the oil filter. The filter's job is to remove solid contaminants such as dirt, carbon and metal particles from the oil before they can damage bearing, journal and cylinder wall surfaces in the engine. The more dirt and other contaminants the filter can trap and hold, the better.

In today's engines, all the oil that's picked up by the oil pump is routed through the filter before it goes to the crankshaft bearings, cam bearings and valvetrain. This is called "full-flow" filtration. It's an efficient way of removing contaminants, and it assures only filtered oil is supplied to the engine. In time, though, accumulated dirt and debris trapped by the filter begin to obstruct the flow of oil. The filter should be changed before it reaches this point, which is why the filter needs to be replaced when the oil is changed.

If you wait too long to change the filter, there's a danger that it might become plugged. To prevent this from causing a catastrophic engine failure due to loss of lubrication, oil filters have a built-in safety device called a "bypass valve." When the pressure drop across the filter exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. But this allows unfiltered oil to enter the engine. Any contaminants that find their way into the crankcase will be pumped through the engine and accelerate wear.

Filter Replacement

If you do your own oil changes, make sure you get the correct filter for your engine. Follow the filter manufacturer's listings in its catalog. Many filters that look the same on the outside have different internal valving. Many overhead cam engines, for example, require an "anti-drainback" valve in the filter to prevent oil from draining out of the filter when the engine is shut off. This allows oil pressure to reach critical engine parts more quickly when the engine is restarted. Filters that are mounted sideways on the engine typically require an anti-drainback valve.

CAUTION: The threads on a spin-on filter must also be the correct diameter and thread pitch (SAE or metric) for your engine. If you install a filter with SAE threads on an engine that requires metric threads (or vice versa), you can damage the threads that hold the oil filter in place. Mismatched threads can also allow the filter to work loose, which causes a sudden loss of oil pressure that may ruin your engine!

Some people say it's best to change the oil when the oil is hot (like right after driving), while others say it makes no difference. CAUTION: Hot oil is thinner and runs out faster but can also burn you if you're not careful. In any event, avoid unnecessary skin contact with oil because oil is a suspected carcinogen (causes cancer).

Changing the oil when it is cold may take a bit longer because the oil will drain more slowly from the engine, but there's no danger of being burned. Also, most of the oil will have drained down into the oil pan when the engine has sat for a period of time, which means you'll actually get a little more of the old oil out of the engine than if you attempt to drain it while it is still hot.

Used motor oil should be disposed of properly. The Environmental Protection Agency does not consider used motor oil to be a hazardous chemical, but it can foul ground water and does contain traces of lead. The best way to dispose of used motor oil is to take it to a service station, quick lube shop, parts store or other facility for recycling. Your old oil will either be rerefined into other lubricants or petroleum products, or burned as fuel.

Do not dump used motor oil on the ground, down a drain, into a storm sewer or place it in the trash. Many landfills will not accept used motor oil even if it is in a sealed container because it will eventually leak out into the ground. If you can't find an environmentally-acceptable way to dispose of the stuff, maybe you shouldn't be changing your own oil. Service facilities that do oil changes all have storage tanks and recycling programs to dispose of used oil

[Source: Yahoo Autos ]

How to Jump Start a Car Battery

David Walker, LeaseTrader.com — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 20:16:05 GMT

How to Jump Start a Car Battery

The first thing you want to remember when jump-starting a car is that a slight possibility of explosion does exist. This is because hydrogen gas--which forms as a battery discharges and loses its fluid--is flammable, and a spark from the battery cables could, theoretically, set it off. We emphasize slight because the gas would have to be fairly dense around the battery for this to happen. This is unlikely unless the battery has been sitting for a long time and little or no air circulation has occurred in the area, but it is possible.

That said, I should add that in the last 15 years I have performed at least 50 "jumps" on various automobiles (you see, I used to own a lot of Chrysler muscle cars) and have never had a problem. One of the keys to avoiding the big bang is to hook up your jumper cables in the proper order. Follow along and we'll show you how.

Park the booster vehicle close to the one that needs to be jumped, but not so close that the vehicles are touching in any way. You'll want to use a good set of jumper cables with thick wire and clean clamps. As you are hooking up the jumper cables, make sure they don't dangle into either engine compartment where they could get caught on moving parts (belts, fan, etc.). Turn off the ignition of both vehicles, set the parking brakes, and make sure that they are in either "Park" or "Neutral" depending on whether the vehicles have an automatic or manual transmission. Also, turn off all accessories like lights, radio and, if the vehicles are in a safe area, the hazard flashers.
Begin the process by clamping one of the positive jumper cable ends (red) to the positive battery terminal (labeled with a "+" on the battery) of the dead vehicle. Be sure the connection is strong with the clamp securely "biting" onto the battery terminal.
Connect the other end of the positive cable (red) to the positive battery terminal on the booster vehicle (again, confirm that a "+" is next to the battery terminal). If the terminals are corroded on either vehicle, you may have to scrape them with an abrasive such as steel wool to achieve a solid connection.
Connect the negative cable end (black) to the negative battery terminal on the booster car (marked with a "-"). Finally, attach the other end of the negative cable to an unpainted metal surface on the engine of the dead car. Find an unpainted bolt or bracket that is as far from the dead battery as possible. This will provide a solid ground while further reducing the possibility of igniting any hydrogen gas.
Make a final check to confirm that the jumper cables are not near any moving engine parts, and start the booster car. Let it idle for several minutes, depending on the state of the dead battery. If the dead battery is new and was drained by the lights being left on an extended period of time, it will probably start immediately. If it is an old battery or it has sat for a long time (more than a month) it will probably take awhile to charge it sufficently.
Start the dead vehicle and let the two vehicles idle for a few minutes. If the dead vehicle refuses to start, don't keep trying or you might damage the starter. If there is the possibility of additional problems, like a lack of fuel, don't continue trying to start the dead vehicle until the other problem(s) are solved.
Once the dead vehicle is started and running smoothly, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order that they were connected. As you disconnect them, be careful not to let the dangling cables fall into the engine compartments or touch each other.
Drive the revived car to somewhere safe and secure before shutting off the engine. Depending on the battery's condition, it might need to be jumped the next time it is started. To properly charge the battery, attach it to a certified battery charger and leave it connected for at least 12 hours. You can also take it to an automotive repair shop for complete charging. Driving the car for an extended period can also charge the battery, but this should be done only if the other two options aren't available. A vehicle's alternator is primarily designed to maintain a battery, not charge it from a complete drain.

SOURCE: [Edmunds.com ]

How to Change the Motor Oil in Your Car

David Walker, LeaseTrader.com — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 20:04:19 GMT

How to Change the Motor Oil in Your Car

Knowing how to maintain your car will surely add to its life. You must do the necessary check ups once every few months to ensure that your car still runs smoothly. One of the things that you have to check is the motor oil of your car. The motor oil of your car must be changed to ensure that your car will still run the way it should. You can get your motor oil changed by bringing your car to the automotive shop and having someone do it for you. If If you have the time, you can learn how to change the motor oil of your car by yourself so that you can save some money.

Get completely ready for the oil change. Collect all of the required things you will need to change your oil and have them within easy reach. Place the car on a level surface to allow the oil to drain properly and set the parking brake. You should not have to place the car on a ramp or on jacks, unless you are unable to easily access the oil pan.
Remove the old oil. Find the oil drain plug from underneath your car. It will be located on the oil pan. Set a large container with at least a six inch mouth (to catch all the oil) below the plug. Loosen the drain plug (counter clockwise) with a socket wrench and then unscrew it completely by hand. Be ready for a rush of oil once the plug has been removed. Let all of the oil drain from your car. After all of the oil is gone, replace the drain plug (and any gaskets if needed) on the drain pan.
Get rid of the old oil filter. Remove the oil filter (and gasket/seal) with an oil filter wrench. You can find the oil filter under the hood. It will look like a long cylinder, usually coated in rubber and about the size of a can of soup. To find its exact location, refer to the car manual. After removing the filter, coat the new oil filter gasket with a little oil using your finger. This will ensure that the ring doesn't get stuck to the filter mount. Tighten the new filter into place on your car by hand.
Add the new oil to your car. While relatively unimportant, it is a good idea to add the correct type of oil for the season. 0W30 and 5W30 are better oils for winter in which the temperature gets down around zero. 10W30 is better for summer months because the viscosity is thicker. To add the oil, remove the oil filler cap located on top of your engine and then use a funnel to place the new oil in. Put the oil filler cap back on when finished, warm up your engine and then check the oil level of your car. The manual will tell you exactly how much oil your car can hold, but never add as much as the car can take. This is important because some oil will be left over in the engine and it is always better to have less oil in a car than too much.
Drop the oil off at a local garage or a hazardous waste center. You will likely have to pay a small fee for them to take it but it will be nominal compared to what you would have to pay a mechanic to change your oil.

How to Check Your Tire Pressure

David Walker, LeaseTrader.com — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:41:59 GMT

How to Check Your Tire Pressure

Underinflated tires might cause an accident that could kill you. Need another reason for inflating your tires?

Underinflated tires increase tire wear, which could burn through a set of $400 tires a year early. Need another reason?

Underinflated tires waste gas. How much gas? The Department of Transportation estimates that 5 million gallons of fuel per day are wasted due to low tire pressure. That's more than 2 billion gallons per year, just because people don't take the time to inflate their tires properly.

Inflating your tires to the specified pressure is important. So make it a habit to check and refill your tires once a month. And remember, you can't tell if a tire is underinflated just by looking at it. If it actually looks underinflated, it is way underinflated.

You can't tell whether a tire has the correct air pressure just by looking at it. Always use a tire-pressure gauge. You can buy a good-quality tire-pressure gauge at your local auto-parts store. If you don't have one, the pressurized-air machines at many gas stations and garages have gauges, although they might not always be accurate or functioning.
Find the air-pressure specifications for your car's tires. You'll usually find them on a sticker located on the driver's side doorjamb. Or the sticker may be in the glove box or trunk. Don't look at the tire's sidewall for the air-pressure specifications, as it lists the maximum pressure for the tire.
Unscrew the plastic cap on the air valve. Put it in your pocket so you don't lose it.
Press the tire-pressure gauge against the valve and hold it down firmly (see illustration). If you hear a hissing noise, you are letting air out. Press down harder.
Read the measurement on the gauge.
Add air as needed but don't overfill the tire.

How to Replace Your Windshield Wipers ( Wiper Blades )

David Walker, LeaseTrader.com — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:31:20 GMT

How to Replace Your Windshield Wipers ( Wiper Blades )

Though it seems easy at first glance, replacing worn windshield-wiper blades can be an exercise in frustration if you've never done it before. The package usually comes with elaborately folded directions in five languages and enough clips and attachments to make you tear out your hair. But once you have mastered how the attachments on your particular wipers work, replacing them is a breeze.

Purchase the correct replacement windshield-wiper blades for your car at an auto parts store. Buy the entire blade, not just the rubber blade insert.
Open the package and find the attachment that matches the one on the wiper blade on your car. Read through the directions to see how to connect the attachment to the blade.
Pull the wiper arm up so it is no longer resting on the windshield.
Remove the old wiper blade from the wiper arm (see picture). This typically involves pushing on a tab and pulling the wiper blade off or lifting a tab with a small screwdriver.
Insert the attachment onto the new blade or onto the wiper arm (see picture). On some cars, it may be easier to put the attachment on the wiper blade first; on other models, it is easier to first put the attachment onto the wiper arm. Listen for a click.
Tug on the wiper blade to make sure it is securely attached and won't fly off later.
Gently lower the wiper arm onto the windshield.

How to change a Tire

David Walker, LeaseTrader.com — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:17:47 GMT

Have you ever gotten stuck, helplessly stranded on the side of the road with a flat, or do you dread someday getting trapped in that kind of scenario? Do you want to be able to change a tire without having to ask for help? Luckily for you, changing a tire is a pretty simple task, if you don't mind a little bit of elbow grease!

Put the car in park on level ground and apply the parking brake. Place manual transmission cars in gear. Make sure you have pulled off the road. Turn the engine off and turn on the hazard lights. You may want to open the hood to indicate to other drivers that you are stopped for repairs.
Place a wheel chock or a large rock behind (if facing uphill) or in front (if facing downhill) the diagonally opposing wheel to prevent the car from rolling. Do this even on a slight incline. Get out the spare, a lug nut wrench (tire iron) and the car jack.
Remove the hubcap, if necessary.
Loosen the lug nuts, which hold the wheel in place, before jacking up the car: Place one end of the lug nut wrench over a lug nut. Use a hollow pipe (about 2 feet in length) for leverage by slipping it over the end of the lug nut wrench. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to loosen the lug nut. Loosen the lug nuts in a star pattern, first loosen one a few turns, then loosen the one opposite. Work across the tire until all the lug nuts are loose and unscrewed slightly.
Carefully jack up the car (see 'Jack Up a Car Safely'). Check your owner's manual for the correct and safe place to put the jack. Jack the car up a little higher than is necessary to remove the old tire so there is room to put the new, full tire on.
Remove the lug nuts all the way and set them aside in a place where you won't lose them and they won't roll away. The flat tire should be hanging from the threaded studs now.
Remove the flat tire and set it aside.
Lift the new tire onto the wheel studs. If you're confused about which is the right way to put the new tire on, check for the valve where you add air, it always faces out.
Replace the lug nuts. Tighten them the same way you loosened them: Give each nut a few turns, first one, then the one opposite, working around the wheel in a star pattern. Try not to tighten adjacent nuts consecutively.
Slowly lower the jack and remove it.
Tighten the lug nuts again as much as you can.
Put the hubcap back on.